Teacher Trekker

After the morning portion of the tour and a lackluster lunch our tour guide made sure that everyone was back on the van so that we could promptly leave at 2:15 p.m. for the afternoon portion of the tour. We traveled on Highway 1-A. The road north of Hue was named the “street without joy” by French soldiers during the First Indochina War. Revolutionary forces inflicted heavy casualties on first the French and then the Americans years later. We traveled north on Highway 1-A for the next 25 minutes before we stopped alongside the road near a Vietnamese monument.

It’s interesting that when we pulled up to the monument, our guide didn’t really tell us anything other than we had 15 minutes. We all exited the bus, but she remained inside on the telephone for almost half the time we were there. By the time she came up, most of us were up the stairs taking photos of the monument. She basically pointed out what we saw. It was a statue dedicated to the sacrifices made by the local revolutionaries who fought to achieve victory against the Americans. I took a photo of the sign and later discovered that we just visited the Doc Mieu Victory Monument. We were called back to the bus and were on our way to our next stop or were we?

The McNamara Line & Doc Mieu Combat Base

From 1966 to 1968 the U.S. employed a strategy developed by then Secretary of State Robert McNamara. His plan called for a combination of military installations, traditional military obstacles like mines, as well as the introduction of state of the art electronic surveillance devices that would register heat and sound. The system was referred to as the McNamara Line. Jungles were cleared to make space for what would become a part of the defensive barrier along the DMZ. Hundreds of millions of land mines were laid out to prevent the crossing between North and South. It cost an estimated $1 billion a year to maintain the network. North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and Viet Cong (VC) troops figured out how to trick the systems rendering its effectiveness questionable at best. In the 1968 Tet Offensive, many of the bases that formed the backbone of this network were overrun. The McNamara Line, like the bases of which it was comprised, were abandoned.

Our itinerary called for us to visit the Doc Mieu Combat Base that was a part of the McNamara Line. Although there is only a stone monument and half destroyed tank, it was on our itinerary, and we failed to visit the location. I was done being upset and just hoped the next few sights would be as interesting as Khe Sanh Combat Base.

Crossing the Ben Hai River

A ride that should have taken less than 10 minutes to reach the Ben Hai River took us over a half an hour. As a result, we drove right past what should’ve been another stop. The Ben Hai River was the official border crossing that divided North and South Vietnam at the 17th parallel. Today it is a tourist attraction, and we drove past all of it.

As we headed north, there were two bridges to our right. American bombs destroyed the first Hien Luong Bridge in 1967 and again destroyed it in 1970. At the time, it was painted half red and half yellow as a symbol of the ideological and physical division between North and South Vietnam. In 1973, an iron girder bridge was built and reopened following reunification in 1975. The current bridge was built in 1999. Also on our right along the edge of the river was the Reunification Monument in the shape of what appeared to be palm leaves. To our left was a large flag tower and a small museum with war paraphernalia. Sadly, I was only able to capture a few photos out of the bus and most were obstructed with reflections and window curtains. We continued on to the Vinh Moc Tunnels. We arrived around 3:15 p.m. and spent an hour at the sight.

The Vinh Moc Tunnels

On the way from the parking lot area to the entrance of the historic sight are a series of food carts and vendors selling everything from coconuts to souvenirs. Our group made their way past the entrance gate (apparently our tickets were paid for which is quite uncommon for tours in Vietnam that tend to make you pay all entry fees regardless of the tour price), and we were introduced to our guide specifically for the tunnels. Our female guide walked right back into the tour bus once she passed us off to him as if we had the plague.

Before entering the tunnel complex we first walked around looking at above ground building projects. The trench system was clearly visible as we made our way towards the tunnel entrance. Along the way he pointed out a number of different types of shelters that were used on a temporary basis. For example, there were reconstructions of A-shelters. They are made using two pieces of wood that lean against each other at the top of the shelter with its feet stretching out to form the shape of the letter A. Earth is dug up that is used to cover the sides of the shelter. I’ve seen and built many defensive barriers, but this was one I was unfamiliar with. It was basically a lean-to on steroids.

Prior to entering the tunnels, we first stopped at the museum. Most interesting was probably the photographs that portrayed construction and daily life in the tunnels. There were also weapons and unexploded bombs that were dropped on the area. There were some paintings and a bas relief portraying the war experience with a famous quote from Shakespeare above it.

History of the Vinh Moc Tunnels

Located approximately 13 kilometers east of Highway 1 on the north shore of the Ben Hai River in Vinh Linh Village, Vinh Thach Commune, Vinh Linh District, Quang Tri Province are the Vinh Moc Tunnels. The complex was originally designed to shelter the local villagers from American airstrikes. Many of these villagers worked the supply route from the Con Co Islands that were 28 kilometers offshore and an NVA stronghold in the South China Sea. The success of the Cu Chi Tunnels outside of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) inspired the adoption of this strategic model throughout Vietnam. The first set of tunnels were built over the course of 13 months from 1965 and 1966. They were extended over time and often linked to other tunnel systems throughout the region, connecting almost 70 villages in 15 communes in Vinh Linh District by 1968. Work and life continued underground in the Vinh Moc Tunnels until 1972 and the conclusion of the American War.

The construction process was quite an undertaking considering the circumstances. Much of the work was done tediously by hand. The soil is a soft red laterite clay mixture that allows for easier digging, but work was slow and the threat of American bombing at any time weighed even heavier on the work process. They air hardened the clay making the walls and ceiling structurally sound. That, coupled with the introduction of zigzag points, reinforced sections of walls and prevented ammunition and bombs from entering the tunnel. Wells were dug 50 meters apart and always served as the starting point of each new corridor. The effects of monsoons and tropical rains was also considered during construction that resulted in a drainage system with 2 – 3 degree sloped floors. All of these considerations resulted in the execution of one of the largest and most advanced tunnel system in the country.

According to Vietnamese measurements the tunnel system is 1701 meters long. The main corridor is 768 meters long with an average height of 1.6 to 1.9 meters and an average width of 0.9 to 1.2 meters. The complex has three levels. The first, at a depth of 8-10 meters, was used primarily as family quarters. The second floor was at roughly 15 meters and used for the storage of weapons and essential supplies. The lowest level was 23 meters deep, but some estimates measure the depth at 30 meters. This bottom level was used as the bomb refuge during air attacks to protect against American bombs that could penetrate up to 10 meters. The tunnels have 13 entry and exit points known as gates: 7 with access to the ocean and 6 with access to the top of the hill. Villagers worked over 18,000 hours of manual labor removing approximately 6,000 cubic meters of earth during the digging of the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

With the passage of time, the tunnel complex grew in size and complexity. Freshwater wells and ventilation was vital for survival. Food was prepared on a Hoang Cam cooker limiting the dispersion of smoke during cooking. Down the main corridor were housing chambers for families or units of 2 to 4 people. The space barely fit a single bed let alone multiple bodies. There were kitchens, schools, maternity wards and hospitals. Low estimates suggest 17 children were born in the tunnels, but another locally obtained source claims over 60 babies. There were meeting rooms and storage facilities. There was also a hall were anywhere from 40 to 80 people could meet. (High estimates suggest 150 people could fit inside.) Movies and theatrical performances were put on by art groups who along with locals sang the slogan, “the singing voice outweighed the noises of bombs.” Eventually, generators allowed for the introduction of lighting systems. Above ground a 3 year construction project resulted in the creation of 8 kilometers of trenches that are still visible today.

Legacies of the Vinh Moc Tunnels

During the war, the tunnels served a variety of functions. They were primarily constructed as as a shelter system for local villagers. The network certainly played a role in combat and logistical operations along the DMZ, but it was more of an underground village than the fighting tunnels of Cu Chi in the south. An estimated 60 families or 300 people lived in the tunnels from 1966 to 1972. No villagers died as a result of air strikes while hiding in the tunnels. The only time the tunnels were ever directly hit was because of unexploded ordinance going off. Locals turned this opening into a ventilation shaft once the remaining explosives were removed. At its peak, the complex was able to temporarily shelter over a thousand villagers from American air strikes that ravaged the region. The story of the Vinh Moc Tunnels can serve as a microcosm for the entire conflict. The Vietnamese people endured great hardships and made tremendous personal sacrifices to defend their homeland and reclaim it from foreign aggressors.

In 1976, the Vietnamese Ministry of Culture and Communication placed the Vinh Moc Tunnels on a special list of national historic sites. A variety of governmental and non-governmental agencies worked to restore the tunnel system. In 1995, the tunnels were opened to the public for tourism. Based on the sign, the complex is open from 7: 00 to 16: 30 with an entry costs of 20,000 VND (approximately $1) but that price does not include a guide. It’s amazing that they would even let you down there without a guide, but they will. Having some basic land navigation skills and flashlights would be advisable before entering the tunnels on your own.

Impressions of the Vinh Moc Tunnels

Without a doubt the highlight of the afternoon portion of the DMZ Tour was the visit to the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Although I didn’t catch his name, our guide was the complete opposite of our regular tour guide. His family, including his parents, lived through the war and were children during the war. His parents knew each other as children in the tunnels. He was actually one of the best guides I had during my entire time in country, and he probably was the most knowledgable about the subject matter. He asked a few questions, all of which I had the answers for, and he called me his gold star student. I think he was making a joke connecting the yellow star on the Vietnamese flag, or perhaps I was reading into it too much. We were the only ones laughing when he said it, so I think I am correct in making that assumption. I learned a great deal from our guide, much of which I have passed along in this article.

After touring outside and the museum, we made our way into the tunnels. We walked by many of the different rooms used by families to survive underground for extended periods of time. All of the living quarters were so small a large dog cage would look comparable in size. Despite the small rooms, the corridors were quite tall. There was a mild breeze from the ventilation and lights aided in visibility. The construction was amazing to see as we made our way to the lower levels. Portions of the walls inside rooms were covered with graffiti, carved names and messages. I wondered how many were from tourists destroying the interior of the tunnels. There were no recognizable Western names, so I am inclined to think they are more likely messages from the past than contemporary markings as territorial claims. We only saw a portion of the tunnel system, but the sample was enough to demonstrate the amount of work and dedication that was put into building underground communities to protect themselves from the threats posed by the American military and its vast arsenal of state of the art weapons technology.

As we exited the tunnel gate, we made our way to a beach on the South China Sea. It’s a shame that such a beautiful beach was used for supply runs to the Con Co Islands rather than a luxurious retreat to enjoy a day in the sun. One can only imagine how the villagers who inhabited the Vinh Moc Tunnels and similar complexes across the country coped with this existence. In reality their lives were so dark and isolated, yet as a people they persevered. Their spirits were full of hope like a ray of sunshine poking through the clouds allowing them to carry on and achieve their goals. The Vietnamese are a resilient people who have fought off invaders for much of their existence. The Vinh Moc Tunnels embody the character and virtues of the Vietnamese people. I would have liked to stay longer, but once again it was time to keep moving.

Back to Dong Ha

It took us approximately 30 minutes to drive south back to Dong Ha. We arrived once again at the Mekong Hotel before bus headed back to Hue. Actually, everyone else was headed back, but I was making my way to Hanoi. I was scheduled to stay in Dong Ha and make my way to a travel agency where I would pick up the night bus to Hanoi. While everyone else was using the bathroom and preparing for their journey south, I had to talk with our tour guide who was already aware of my plans. She gave me directions. They certainly weren’t the best directions. I asked her to write them down for me. She huffed and shrugged her shoulders in frustration as she clearly just wanted to get back into the air conditioned bus towards Hue so her day could be over. To follow along with me on my trip to Hanoi see my article: Vietnam – Dong Ha to Hanoi Night Bus

Conclusions & Tour Review

Despite all the nonsense, I’m glad I was able to visit Khe Sanh Combat Base and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Sure, I would have liked to see more locations in the area, but I would like to see more of everything everywhere I go. For me, day trips like this are about experiencing history that I spent years studying in school, and that is always a good feeling despite the humbling effect of all of the places I visited over the course of the day. The where was not the problem rather it was the who, what, and when that created all the difficulties.

As I pointed out throughout the DMZ Tour articles, I was not very impressed with the travel agency’s handling of the tour. My pick up and the start of the tour was late, yet the group was rushed throughout the day to stay on schedule and keep up the pace. Half of the day we were riding in the tour bus from location to location. We missed a number of sights that were on our itinerary like La Vang Church, Doc Mieu Combat Base, the Hien Luong Bridge and the Ben Hai River. What boggles my mind is that no one seemed to either notice or care very much. I’m upset that I didn’t get to visit those sights, and it feels as if I need to do the tour all over again to hit the locations that the tour missed. The sights we did visit always felt rushed and too brief. Perhaps the late start and traffic are the reasons for our need to skip some locations. It just felt like we were always in a rush, but I was never quite sure why. I would understand if someone communicated with the group.

My other issue was with our tour guide. She lacked the necessary interpersonal skills to perform as a good guide. She was not very talkative and only communicated with the group when necessary. It’s not that she was mean or rude, but she was just not friendly and personable. She provided facts like a robot or a bored employee doing their job on autopilot. The entire day she was brief and always more concerned with sticking to the timetable than actually providing detailed information. The tour felt more like a chain gang lead relentlessly onward by our bored tour guide.

Maybe I just know too much about the history of the conflict that goes well beyond the information she was providing. I feel that she should have known a great deal more about the DMZ and Ho Chi Minh Trail than she did. Personally, she was barely scratching the surface and disinterested in her job throughout the day. I ended up playing tour guide for some of the group and was pleased to pass along the information that our guide could not. Hey! Wait a second. Where’s my paycheck? Maybe at some point in the future I could do this?

Looking back I should have taken a private 4×4 (SUV) tour instead of the regular group tour. If I was with a group of people, we could have split the costs, because it was a flat rate for 4×4 and tour driver. I wouldn’t have even questioned the decision. I was unwilling to pay for all of the expenses at the time, but totally should have. The few times I did pay for private tours, it was always expensive because I was usually by myself, but always worth the money. I have my reservations about riding motorbikes for a number of reasons, so I didn’t consider that as an option. There were multi-day tours available, but I wanted to also do the Hue City Tour. Hindsight is 20/20, but considering how much of a Cold War history fan I am, I should have considered doing the 2 day DMZ Tour and skipped the Hue City Tour or stayed another day in Hue. (If I was not meeting friends in Hanoi on a specific date and had extra time I may have decided to do the 2 day tour.) Hopefully you can learn from my regrets and have a better day than I did.

Getting to the Vinh Moc Tunnels

There are a number of ways to get to the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Your easiest option is to travel with a tour group. You can also travel by train for an hour and a half to Sa Lung that is 20 kilometers from the tunnels. From there you can negotiate transport to the sight. Taking the bus is another option. The Hue to Hanoi bus stops in Dong Ha. It would take around an hour and a half to travel the roughly 70 kilometers to Dong Ha, but will take longer depending on the number of stops it makes along the way. From there you will need to go by car or motorbike. The ride is approximately 30 kilometers and takes about 45 minutes. Price will depend on negotiations with the driver. Honestly, I would recommend traveling with some sort of tour group or private arrangement as navigating local transportation may not be an easy feat for tourists. Regardless of which method of transportation you choose, there are a number of interesting sights connected to the American conflict in Vietnam in the area that are worth visiting. Happy trekking!